Jules has gone back to Colombia and we miss her. The last weekend she was here, we went to Cochin, down in Kerala (the southern-most state of India). Jules, Luis and I flew down Thursday morning and Diego joined us that afternoon. We had plans of doing touristy stuff like walking around Fort Cochin and Jew Town (that is the actual name) and taking a house boat tour on the back waters and maybe even a trip to the beach. Instead, we spent almost the entire long weekend at the hotel. We were tired and it was nice to relax and nap and play on the grass outside (something we do very little of around here). Luis loved exploring the big lobby at Le Meridian and I loved how sweet and kind and playful everyone was with Luis. By the end of the weekend, almost every lobby staff knew his name. He enjoyed watering the plants (just like he does here), looking out the big glass doors, walking around the lobby, climbing the stairs and kissing the 4' miniature elephant statue that was in the lobby (he also like riding the elephant; and in India, you can do that - it's even encouraged). Luis also got to go swimming a couple of times, which he seemed to really enjoy.
On Saturday, feeling a bit of pressure to do SOMETHING while in Kerala, we hired a car and driver from the hotel to take us "into town". We went into Fort Cochin area first. It seemed more like a strip of cart vendors next to the water than a town. We cruised from end to end, seeing much of the same things we've seen in other parts of India - handicrafts, shawls, clothing, and jewelry. No matter how many times I see the same things, I'm always compelled to take a look, just in case.
One of the stalls in Fort Cochin
What was interesting to me was the animals we saw. Here in Mumbai, there are dogs everywhere. You can't go more than a block without seeing a street dog. On the promenade where I walk Ashley (and Luis, really), I probably see 50 dogs every day. And while the cats aren't as visible, they are almost as populous. (I'm not sure if they are out of sight for fear of falling prey to the hawks and other animals, or if cats are just less social than dogs. Maybe a combo?) 
In Cochin, there were almost no cats OR dogs. In fact, I think I counted 2 cats and 3 dogs the 
whole trip. In their place were goats. Lots and lots of goats. Goats lounging on the beach. Goats eating watermelon rinds. Goats in trees. And goats walking along the sidewalk. Luis even got to pet one of the goats! We also saw some cows. But no camels, no elephants, nothing exotic.
Prawns (l) and Lobster (r)
a man works on a fishing net
After about an hour of walking around, we stepped into a hotel/restaurant for lunch. The food was OK and the service was slow, but we've come to expect as much - and so enjoyed ourselves quite a bit. Luis had fallen asleep in the Ergo (backpack). I was tempted to let him stay there, sleeping, expect it was about 95 degrees out and we were both sweating profusely. The waiter was kind enough to get us a towel, so Luis napped on the floor. After he woke up, he explored the hotel, the restaurant, the stairs and the smallest pool I've ever seen (of which I'm sorry I don't have a photo - it was about 4' x 8').
After lunch, we walked the other way along the water, and stumbled across the actual Fort of Fort Cochin. I debated about whether or not to inclined a picture because I don't think I have one that doesn't indicate complete neglect or show lots of graffiti. Suffice it to say it's a nice concrete fort at the edge of the water.
Along this part of our walk though, we did bump into a beautifully dressed young woman who was eager to chat us up and share a peacock feather with Luis. She acted as if she was just out for a walk - decked out in an embroidered & bedazzled sari with fancy jewellery and a wrist full of bangles. The man that was with her - with a professional-grade camera who stood just beyond us the whole time and snapped about 60 pictures - led Diego and I to believe that they are with the board of tourism (and that Luis just became the new poster boy for Kerala and/or Fort Cochin). Diego and I agreed to be a part of whatever they were doing. However, about 15 minutes earlier, some guys had asked to take a picture of Luis. When Diego said, "Sure; for 50 rupees", they were shocked. Of course, when we want to take pictures of the locals it's sometimes as much as 100 Rs. In the end, the guys declined to pay the "fee" and didn't take a picture (the second fact being the surprising part).
Shortly there after, we piled back into the car and drove over to Jew Town; originally populated by a Jewish Community (and where a really, really old synagogue still stands). By now, both Luis and I are over heated and over tired, so we stayed in the air-conditioned car while Jules & Diego took a quick look at an old "palace". We then joined them for the shopping part of Jew Town. We were all surprised at how pleasant it was to shop there - not the usual pressure from shop keepers and store clerks to come and look (after all, as most shop keepers in India love to say, "Looking is Free"). Unfortunately, it was still bloody hot, so we didn't last long. Before heading back, though, we came across this old entryway. It only cost something ridiculous like USD 2k and could be shipped anywhere in the world for free.
who said chivalry is dead? (note man holding umbrella over his head while his wife and daughter walk beside him, unshielded)
this scene at Fort Cochin reminded me so much of Stone Town in Zanzibar
1 comment:
Great post. Can't get over "Jew Town."
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