(Too Many) Pictures of Luis

This is Luis's new outfit from Jeanette. I think it's super cute. And I think he's super cute. And I had a hard time chosing my favorites. But I did. A lot are my favorites...

What Time Is It?

Last night, the power went out for about 45 minutes (a rare thing around here). When it came back on, I realized that there is not one single clock in this house that had to be re-set. In fact, we only have 3 clocks in the house: one in the kitchen (that runs on batteries) and two that are part of an indoor/outdoor thermometer set (which also run on batteries). We don't have alarm clocks or clocks on the DVD player or even the microwave.
I don't know why, but this seems very strange to me.

Time Flies

It's official: We are leaving Mumbai at the end of May. Diego and I have been talking about this for some time now. Well, now he's given notice at work, we've given notice to our landlord, we've given notice to our staff and we've requested quotes from relocation companies.

I have mixed emotions about this departure. Our time in Mumbai did not turn out to be what we thought it would be - or hoped it would be. For the most part, Luis, Ashley and I have had a fairly charmed life. I am convinced that Luis's entourage of doters and supporters are a big part of why he is so happy and confident. Ashley is the trimmest she's been in a long time and also the most active. I, for the most part, have settled in to life here and accepted all that it comes with.

Diego has had the harder time, managing things at work. It's a very different professional environment here. He's been sick quite a bit. Besides the horrific Pink Eye incident back in the fall, he has had several colds, chest infections, sinus infections and days of just feeling crummy. We have both worried about what would happen if Luis got really sick here as we have heard too many bad stories about the health care our friends have received. I worried about Ashley. We have all missed being able to spend time outside (because of some combination of rains, pollution, heat, and smell).

For all of this and more, we have decided to leave. The plan is to pack up the apartment the last week in May and ship our stuff back home (VA). Ashley, Luis, Diego and I will leave here a few days later and head back to the States. We are hoping to be able to take a month or two-long family vacation, maybe renting a house in Florida. As for our next destination... that's still up in the air. At this point, anything is possible (outside of India).

Luis - 15 Months (and one week)

It seems it's been a while since I've updated on Luis. He hit 15 months last week. His current stats are 31" tall and 26 1/2 pounds (those are both measured at home). I guess his biggest change/growth/accomplishment is his ability to pitch a fit. As he gets older and more cognizant of his likes and wants (and dislikes), he's also becoming more vocal about them. For instance, Luis likes to walk around with the plastic pitcher the Gardener uses to water the indoor plants. All was well & good until Luis figured out that when Viakram uses it, there is water inside but when Luis uses it, there is none. Upon discovering this, Luis THREW the pitcher on the floor, started crying and walking backwards until he eventually stumbled and fell backwards onto the floor. Then he really had something to cry about. Backing up and falling over backwards are two of Luis's main reactions to being upset or disappointed. Luis has figured out how to open the sliding glass doors that lead out to the balcony. Unlike some of his other accomplishments, he doesn't gloat and glee over this. Instead, he stealthily slips out the door and then hides on the balcony. He loves this game. So now, we often keep the door shut to the small room (which leads to the balcony).

Luis has started carrying things around. He's been carrying the broom for a long time, but he was actually using it to sweep. The last couple of days, we've been playing in his room before his morning nap. He'll reach in between the slats of his crib and pull out the blanket that Liz made. Luis also has this plastic snail that plays music (I swear, there are 50 songs in there!). He has long loved to hear the songs. A couple of weeks ago, he mastered pushing the button to make it play himself. Now, he takes the snail for a walk, pulling it behind him with the little string (thank goodness for marble floors).

And speaking of music, he loves it. He's figured out where the stereo is in the living room. When he wants to hear some tunes, he points at it and won't budge until you put the music on. Then, he likes to dance. Several mornings a week, we have a family dance party with Diego. Luis likes both being held and dancing (that means lots of spinning and bouncing and rocking) and standing and doing his own little bounce. As Diego said this morning, Watching Luis dance - never not funny.

Luis still doesn't really have any words (that I know of). But he is quick to tell you what the crow says (Awwww Awwww). And he has almost as many tricks as Ashley (and some of the same ones). He shakes hands, waves ta-ta, waves Hi (a different kind of wave), blows kisses, and gives the "Salaam" salute. He is usually good about delivering items upon request (Luis, please give Diego his wallet). And this morning, when I told him we had to stop playing with the broom because it was time for breakfast, he took the broom over the corner to put it away before coming out to his high chair. YEAH!! He still loves books and will pull them into the crib at the end of nap time (if I leave them on the bedside table). The pool is still very popular, as is bath time. With both, when the time comes to turn off the water, well, let's just say that it doesn't make Luis happy.

Luis has started to climb and scale things. He had a week or two (about a month ago) where he liked to climb onto the little table in his room. That passed and I breathed a sigh of relief. But this week, he's tried to figure out how to climb up onto his bookshelf and he's tried to use his Little People barn as a step ladder (though I have no idea what he was reaching for - it was alone in the middle of the floor). Once this week, trying to reach his pacifier which was in the crib, he held onto the slats of the crib and sort of jumped up.

I am a bit shocked (though happy) - Luis is still sleeping 16-17 hours in a 24-hour period; twelve hours at night and two naps. He's always been a kid who likes to sleep... Which is what he's doing now!

Many Happy Returns of the Day - Part II

Yesterday, after much waiting and anticipation and speculation that maybe the mailman was still angry with me, Jeanette's package arrived (almost 3 weeks after it was sent). It was filled with delicious goodies to snack on, a People magazine to read, and a ridiculously cute outfit for Luis.

We ate most of the cookies and most of the jelly beans yesterday. Such great treats; who could resist? Turns out, however, that soft bake cookies don't fare so well through a 3-week trans-atlantic, trans-europe, trans-indianic trip. They don't look so good, but they tasted just as good. Yeah. But also a little scary to think about what preservatives allow that to happen...

And last night, when Luis went to sleep, I lay on the couch and read the People magazine cover to cover (not that I've ever been a big People reader, it was just a nice diversion).

A super big THANK YOU to Jeanette!

Many Happy Returns of the Day

Wednesday was my birthday. Thomas, in a sweet birthday email, pointed out that I was born on a Wednesday, and said that he considers birthdays on the same day of the week the celebrant was born to be special. To be honest, I was a little bit dreading this birthday. Not because of the age (I turned 33) but because I was worried I'd be lonely. Diego was in the US. My two closest friends here, Mary Beth & Erika were both (ironically) in Jaipur with their families. So it was just going to be Ashley, Luis, and me. I don't often like to admit this, but Thomas was right and I was wrong. It WAS special and I was not lonely.

Diego called early in the morning from Atlanta to wish me a Happy Birthday. Then, Anita (Diego's secretary) and Anwar (our driver) both texted me to wish me "Many Happy Returns of the Day." When Pauline arrived, I told her it was my birthday. She shook my hand and also wished me Many Happy Returns of the Day. I was able to Skype with Mom, Dodie & family (who sweetly sang to me), Sarah, Jeanette and Angela. I got email messages from loads of family and friends. I even got a dedicated post on my family's NCAA Hoops Website. My Grandfather, who I think has been timely and prompt for most of his 99 years sent me a card in mid-February to make sure it arrived in time. I put it up on the fridge and waited three weeks to open it. With the uncertainty of mail delivery, it was in fact the only card I had. [I know there are quite a few on their way.]

I decided that it wasn't birthday without cake. I also decided that homemade cake beats store bought cake every time (I actually decided this more than a decade ago, and simply reminded myself of this fact). So I hopped in a rickshaw and headed over to Vijays Food Provisions to pick up a $4 Betty Crocker cake mix. Yes, to me, cake from a cake mix box is "home made". It's my birthday; I get to make up the rules.
Luis was eager to help with the stirring of the batter. And the flinging of the batter. And the dripping of the batter into the toaster oven (bet YOUR cake mix doesn't included those directions). Still, the cake making didn't go quite as planned, needing to substitute olive oil for vegetable oil (olives are a veggie, no?). And I couldn't find powered sugar for making the icing, so I had to put my big-granular sugar in the mixer. The first 2C up sugar I "powderized" wasn't actually so powdery, but I didn't notice until I'd poured it into the butter. Too late to do anything - except try to powderize more sugar to even out the granular consistency. It got better, but never quite right. In fact, nervous about the olive oil and the granular icing, I waited until almost midnight to have my piece. It wasn't the cake of my dreams.

Thinking of birthdays past - the surprise party Eileen McCarthy hosted for my 15th (maybe my most fun birthday EVER), my 19th party which cemented my now 14-year friendship with Sarah Saelinger (Rimicci), the party I threw for my 21st at BC (I won't reference the most memorable parts b/c this is a family blog - and because my parents read it, but for those of you who were there, you remember), Angela's icing mishap on my 25th, my 26th party for which Jeanette came from NY and Angela came from AZ, the bowling party Diego surprised me with for my 30th and the trip to Paris he gave me for my 31st - this year wasn't what I would have planned for myself. Not the birthday of my dreams.

But this life I have... My friends and my family. My husband, my son and my dog. All of the people here in Mumbai who are so kind and generous to Luis and Ashley (and Diego & me). The good health that I have and that my friends all have. All of the people around the world who love me. Those are the things dreams are made of. And I had all of that on my birthday on Wednesday. How could I be lonely?

The Very Hungry Catepillar

Tonight for dinner, Luis partook in a slice of pizza, chicken nuggets, macaroni & cheese, a piece of buttered toast, a banana, and some rice & chicken soup mixed together. I say "partook in" instead of "ate" because he in fact, only ate a small, small amount of each dish. I'm not sure exactly what was going on with him. He has been, his whole life, a very easy-going eater. That seems to have changed (for me, Pauline doesn't have this problem) in the last week or so. And only sometimes, not all the time.

Since I was a child who would not eat sliced cheese if the cheese became torn to any extent during the unwrapping, put ketchup on almost everything that was put in front of me, ate only salad, carrots and green beans from the veggie food category, ordered plain hamburgers - no bun, and proved to be more stubborn than my FATHER (and who still, at one-day-shy of age 33, doesn't like onions, mustard, and black pepper), it would be entirely fair for Luis to have some period (or a whole childhood) of picky eating. But it would be nice if he didn't.

(PS - In case you didn't quite catch the subtle hint, tomorrow - 3/19 - is my birthday.)

What We've Been Up To - Ten Days in Pictures

Luis enjoys the garden in front of our building, playing on the swing and the slide. He also is quite happy to just walk & run around. Usually, I'm throwing the frisbee for Ashley, so it's a bit of an obstacle course for everyone.
Shabina & Luis play in the kitchen every day while Shabina makes dinner. She bought Luis his own little chipati maker set (the rolling pin and round "stool" onto which they are rolled). He likes it, but still prefers Shabina's set.

Luis likes to go swimming. As the temperatures are heating up here, Luis spends a lot of time in his pool on the balcony - somedays taking as many as 3 dips per day. Since last swimming season, Luis can now crawl out of the pool, walk across the balcony, get his broom, and then get back in the pool.Parvati made Luis his own broom. To simply say that he loves it more than life itself would, in fact, be an understatement. He sweeps our apartment from morning until night.

Anwar and his family came to visit one night. His children are 9 mo and 4 (or maybe 5). It was a lot of fun to watch the kids play together.

I went back to college for one week, or so it felt. Dodie let me read a draft of his dissertation. I spent about a week learning all about Arab settlemen in and influence over East Africa in the mid- to late-nineteenthe century. Even ate pizza for breakfast one day.

Luis learned how to blink (at will).

Read to Me

Luis will sometimes play in his crib for a while after he wakes up but before he asks/demands to get out of his crib. But when he's ready to get up, he's very clear. He'll start by throwing his stuffed animals out, one by one. Then the blankets. Then, he'll flip over each of the mirrors that hangs in his crip. However, when I hear the pacifier hit the floor, I know that time is up!!! For a while, I couldn't keep toys on the bedside table next to his crib; when he dediced that NOW was the time for me to come get him, he would throw these toys onto the ground.

This afternoon, I was studiously reading Dodie's draft dissertation in the office when I heard a small thud in Luis's room. There was no other sound after that, so I didn't tell Pauline (who was working in the kitchen where it's a bit hard to hear Luis's room). Some 2o minutes later - after 3p which is a LONG nap for Luis - Pauline looks in to see what's going on. She says to me, "Ma'am, he's reading."




Sure enough, I had left 4 books on the bedside table from earlier in the day. He had pulled two of them in - a "peekaboo" lift-the-flap book (a gift from Sarah) and a book called Read to Me (a gift from Bettie Traxler). He was very content in his crib reading. I wonder if Pauline hadn't gone in there, how much longer would he have "read"?

(By the way, there is NO staging in this picture - this is exactly how Luis looked when I came in.)

When Did He Learn This?

This morning, Diego was still in bed (he got home from his trip to Dubai after 3a) and Luis and I went in to wake him up. I asked him if he'd like some water and he said yes. So, I get off the bed and walk into the kitchen to get some water. As I'm reaching into the cupboard to get a glass, I look down to my left (those of you who know my kitchen arranging rules know that the glasses are right next to the fridge) to see this:

(this picture was actually from the day before, but I didn't have my camera with me today)

Stay Tuned

I got a couple of posts done today, trying catch up on our news. Then, I got via email, a draft of Dodie's dissertation to read and provide comments on. By Thursday. It's 195 pages.

So for the next couple of days, I'm going to be holed up, reading about the mis-representation of the role the Arabs played in the development of East Africa in the mid- to late-19th century, and Dodie's attempt to set the record a bit straighter. (Dodie, did I get that right??) Today, during Luis's afternoon nap, I read the first 20 pages or so and typed up some notes/questions to send to Dodie. Sounds like a lot of work? I had a great time doing it. I think it's going to be a fun project. I just hope that, when I'm done, Dodie doesn't regret sending me a copy. :)

I'll try to sneak in a post or two of Luis. He's so much fun these days with loads of new tricks and talents and tons of cute pictures.

Ashley - Back in the Game

Friday morning, I took her back to the vet for bloodwork, which all seems to have been normal. Her incontinence is gone (save a few small driplets here and there). Hopefully, she just had some passing bug, that has now passed. This picture was taken Friday afternoon (it was a busy afternoon of Luis on the swings, me taking pictures of the kitten, Ashley playing frisbee with Vikram, Luis playing on the balcony with Vikram). She seems to be feeling much better. Her appetite is back, as is her energy level.

Of course, Ashely does get tired from time to time, and likes to curl up in a quiet, out-of-the-way spot. Like this one:

The Kitties

Before Christmas, I notice a Momma Cat and her three little kittens hanging around the rear of our complex. The kittens were t-i-n-y, still nursing. I decided to bring the Momma Cat food each night, to help nourish her so she could help nourish her babies. Maybe I felt an extra connection to her because I was still nursing my baby. So each night, before bed, I'd bring down some left overs from dinner. It only took two trips down for the Momma Cat to be waiting for me. And when she'd see me, she'd call out MEOW. MEEEEOOOOOOOWWW. MEEOOOWWWW. Her babies would be close behind. I loved feeding them. Unfortunately, on about the 10th night, they weren't waiting for me. Nor the next night, nor the next. I didn't see them again. I was worried that something had gotten some or all of them - but preferred to think that they'd just moved on to another place.Well about 2 weeks ago, I saw two of the three kittens hanging out with the night gate guard (there is a door guard and night guard, each post has two shifts 8a-8p and 8p-8a). And in the morning, when I'd take Ashley and Luis out, the two kittens were again hanging out with the night gate guard. Sometimes I'd see him sharing his dinner with them.

I decided to take up feeding the kittens. So again, each night before bed, Ashley and I would come down to a. let Ashley potty and b. feed the kittens. I've discovered that even street cats can be picky - they like chicken and chapatis and mashed potatoes, but won't eat any vegetable. Bread is OK, but chapatis are better. And they'll eat the mashed potatoes, but only after everything else is gone.
One of the cats is mostly white with patches of orange and black. She reminds me a bit of Muffles. (I say she, but I don't actually know the gender of either kitten.) The other one is a rippley grey color - what I would call "normal cat color". The Muffles Look Alike is more brave - she'll come up and eat out of the bowl or even sometimes my hand. The Grey Cat will only perch under a car and pick up the scraps that I throw to her.

On Friday, when Luis was playing on the swing and Vikram was throwing the frisbee for Ashley, the Orange-Black-White cat was perched on top of the wall next to the gate. When she saw me, she was very friendly and let me get quite close to take some pictures. I'd like to think she likes me, but I'm sure she was just hoping I had food. I didn't see the other kitten, so I don't have any pics of her. These of the OBW cat will have to do for now.

The Gardener

The Gardener - who we called The Gardener because no one knows his name (I asked Babu what his name was an he replied 'Gardener') - has been coming every day (except Sunday) to water our outdoor plants and to clean off the balcony. He spends about 30-45 minutes here each day. He earns ~ $13.50 a month for this work.

Luis has been interested in The Gardener for a long time. About 2-3 weeks ago, Luis started watering the plants with his sippy cups, with his stacking cups, and sometimes with an imaginary hose. He'll spend 30 minutes walking around and around and around the living, watering the plants. When The Gardener comes, Luis stands on the inside of the sliding glass door and watches The Gardener work. I had Shabina explain to The Gardener (who doesn't seem to speak a word of English) that Luis waters the plants and he loved it. I took a picture of Luis helping The Gardener out on the patio and gave a copy to him. He loved that, too. And as Luis has mastered waving "Ta Ta" and giving Flying Kisses, he is the most consistent with the Gardener.

So, on Friday, when The Gardener came up and Luis wanted to go outside with him, I wasn't surprised. And when The Gardener picked up Luis and took him out to the patio, I wasn't surprised. And when I looked through the kitchen window and saw this:

I wasn't surprised. But I was touched. It was such a sweet and tender scene.

Ashley, however, is a different story. The Gardener is deathly afraid of Ashley. Most days he comes up in the elevator, rings the bell, and then gets back into the elevator to wait for me to open the door and assure him that Ashley has been put into a bedroom. And when he's done working, he calls out from the sliding glass doors and again waits for specific confirmation that Ashley can't get him.

Earlier in the day on Friday, Pauline took Luis and Ashley down for a play in the garden. I told her I'd be down in a minute - I wanted to get my camera to take some pictures of Luis playing. When I got down there, I saw this:

I was surprised!

PS - Yesterday - Saturday - I looked out through the kitchen window again and saw The Gardener, sitting on the balcony playing with Luis, pushing his bike & wagon around. The both of them were smiling their big smiles. And even though I couldn't actually hear anything, I knew they were laughing. It was great!

PPS - I told Pauline that no one knows The Gardeners name. So she asked him. It's Vikram.

Ashley - On the Mend (I hope)

On Sunday, Ashley seemed a bit sluggish and less interested in her food. More so on Monday. On Tuesday, she didn't eat the cookie out of her kong. This was a very, very bad sign. Wednesday morning, I had barely opened my eyes when Diego said, "Mary, Ashley's being weird." What do you mean? "She's just staring at me. Sitting here, staring at me in the bed." I knew what that meant. Luis was just waking up. I grabbed him, pushed the elevator button and got Ashley down to the grass as fast as possible. She barely made it...

A trip to the vet later, Dr. Ranjiv thought she had an irritated bowel & prescribed meds. Thursday, Ashley had a terrible case of incontinence. Terrible. (I washed 3 towels and 4 hand towels last night.) I called the vet back and he said we just wait and watch and hope she gets better. Had she been in contact with a street dog? Could she have rabies? I spent most of yesterday imagining the worst. What was wrong with Ashley? Had she picked something out from our many walks? Had she eaten something off the sidewalk? Did she have rabies?? Would she get better? Would I have to put her down. It was a very tough day.

Last night, I talked with Dr. Kate, our vet in the US. She said it sounded like a bladder infection that a simple test would determine. And if it wasn't, there a good meds for dogs with incontinence. Sigh.

Today, she looks better, has her energy back and her appetite. I took Ashley back to Dr. Ranjiv for a blood test. I'll feel better seeing that her kidney & liver functions are normal and that her white & red blood counts are OK. I won't have the results until tonight, but already I feel a bit of relief.

100 Minutes of Happiness

This afternoon, while Luis napped, I had a very, very delicious lunch of left over Black Bean & Orange Chicken over rice, finished reading a very, very nice book about dogs (Dog Days, by Jon Katz - a gift from Lucy) - both enjoyed out on the balcony - and made a batch of very, very yummy (and comforting) No Bake Cookies. (As a special treat and gift from Mercedes & Hernan, Jules brought with her some cocoa from Tamesis, the small town in Colombia where Hernan is from; I just had to grind it up in the blender). All the while, Ashley was curled up near me.

Mmmm. Mmmmm. Mmmmm. What a treat. Too bad the cookies contain peanut butter, which Luis can't have for another 9 1/2 months. Less to share! :)

Just A Cool Picture

This is a reflection of the apartment building behind ours on my computer monitor. On bright days, it's really bright!

Baby Got a New Pair of Shoes

Now that Luis is walking more and more, he needed some shoes he could wear outside. The Robeez we have are perfect for inside, and on the balcony. But he needed something sturdier for navigating the garden and the driveway downstairs. Mom very sweetly sent Luis two pairs of shoes, including these sandals.

Cochin, Kerala

Not sure where the last week has gone. But here it is Monday again, and it seems there is much to report.

Jules has gone back to Colombia and we miss her. The last weekend she was here, we went to Cochin, down in Kerala (the southern-most state of India). Jules, Luis and I flew down Thursday morning and Diego joined us that afternoon. We had plans of doing touristy stuff like walking around Fort Cochin and Jew Town (that is the actual name) and taking a house boat tour on the back waters and maybe even a trip to the beach. Instead, we spent almost the entire long weekend at the hotel. We were tired and it was nice to relax and nap and play on the grass outside (something we do very little of around here). Luis loved exploring the big lobby at Le Meridian and I loved how sweet and kind and playful everyone was with Luis. By the end of the weekend, almost every lobby staff knew his name. He enjoyed watering the plants (just like he does here), looking out the big glass doors, walking around the lobby, climbing the stairs and kissing the 4' miniature elephant statue that was in the lobby (he also like riding the elephant; and in India, you can do that - it's even encouraged). Luis also got to go swimming a couple of times, which he seemed to really enjoy.

On Saturday, feeling a bit of pressure to do SOMETHING while in Kerala, we hired a car and driver from the hotel to take us "into town". We went into Fort Cochin area first. It seemed more like a strip of cart vendors next to the water than a town. We cruised from end to end, seeing much of the same things we've seen in other parts of India - handicrafts, shawls, clothing, and jewelry. No matter how many times I see the same things, I'm always compelled to take a look, just in case.

One of the stalls in Fort Cochin

a great, old tree at Fort Cochin

What was interesting to me was the animals we saw. Here in Mumbai, there are dogs everywhere. You can't go more than a block without seeing a street dog. On the promenade where I walk Ashley (and Luis, really), I probably see 50 dogs every day. And while the cats aren't as visible, they are almost as populous. (I'm not sure if they are out of sight for fear of falling prey to the hawks and other animals, or if cats are just less social than dogs. Maybe a combo?) In Cochin, there were almost no cats OR dogs. In fact, I think I counted 2 cats and 3 dogs the whole trip. In their place were goats. Lots and lots of goats. Goats lounging on the beach. Goats eating watermelon rinds. Goats in trees. And goats walking along the sidewalk. Luis even got to pet one of the goats! We also saw some cows. But no camels, no elephants, nothing exotic.

There were a couple of small seafood guys selling fish. We were shocked to see prawns and lobsters, side by side, the same size. Granted, the lobster was a bit small, but those may have been the biggest prawns I've ever seen!

Prawns (l) and Lobster (r)

a man works on a fishing net

After about an hour of walking around, we stepped into a hotel/restaurant for lunch. The food was OK and the service was slow, but we've come to expect as much - and so enjoyed ourselves quite a bit. Luis had fallen asleep in the Ergo (backpack). I was tempted to let him stay there, sleeping, expect it was about 95 degrees out and we were both sweating profusely. The waiter was kind enough to get us a towel, so Luis napped on the floor. After he woke up, he explored the hotel, the restaurant, the stairs and the smallest pool I've ever seen (of which I'm sorry I don't have a photo - it was about 4' x 8').

After lunch, we walked the other way along the water, and stumbled across the actual Fort of Fort Cochin. I debated about whether or not to inclined a picture because I don't think I have one that doesn't indicate complete neglect or show lots of graffiti. Suffice it to say it's a nice concrete fort at the edge of the water.

Along this part of our walk though, we did bump into a beautifully dressed young woman who was eager to chat us up and share a peacock feather with Luis. She acted as if she was just out for a walk - decked out in an embroidered & bedazzled sari with fancy jewellery and a wrist full of bangles. The man that was with her - with a professional-grade camera who stood just beyond us the whole time and snapped about 60 pictures - led Diego and I to believe that they are with the board of tourism (and that Luis just became the new poster boy for Kerala and/or Fort Cochin). Diego and I agreed to be a part of whatever they were doing. However, about 15 minutes earlier, some guys had asked to take a picture of Luis. When Diego said, "Sure; for 50 rupees", they were shocked. Of course, when we want to take pictures of the locals it's sometimes as much as 100 Rs. In the end, the guys declined to pay the "fee" and didn't take a picture (the second fact being the surprising part).

Shortly there after, we piled back into the car and drove over to Jew Town; originally populated by a Jewish Community (and where a really, really old synagogue still stands). By now, both Luis and I are over heated and over tired, so we stayed in the air-conditioned car while Jules & Diego took a quick look at an old "palace". We then joined them for the shopping part of Jew Town. We were all surprised at how pleasant it was to shop there - not the usual pressure from shop keepers and store clerks to come and look (after all, as most shop keepers in India love to say, "Looking is Free"). Unfortunately, it was still bloody hot, so we didn't last long. Before heading back, though, we came across this old entryway. It only cost something ridiculous like USD 2k and could be shipped anywhere in the world for free.

who said chivalry is dead? (note man holding umbrella over his head while his wife and daughter walk beside him, unshielded)

tourist bungalow??
this scene at Fort Cochin reminded me so much of Stone Town in Zanzibar